Sliding Table Saw Uses from Sawmill Creek

The woodworker who began this thread was shopping for a new table saw when a salesperson told him that, since he doesn't cut a lot of sheet goods, he didn't need one with a sliding table. He posed the question to forum members of whether their saws had this feature, and whether they found it useful. - Editor

"I'm contemplating purchasing a combo sliding table saw/shaper. During my research, a salesperson stated a slider is really only necessary if one is using sheet goods (the store mainly sells North American style table saws). Can I benefit (and, if so, how) from a slider if I mainly build furniture?" - Bill B.

The consensus seemed to be that both ripping and crosscutting could be done on a sliding table saw – but that, if the original poster went with one, he would never look back. - Editor

"It is true that a sliding table saw is great for cutting sheet goods. But I use my sliding table saw mostly for ripping and crosscutting solid wood." -Brian

"I use the slider at work mostly for crosscutting solid stock to length. There is no crosscut sled I have seen that can compare to even a small slider in terms of safety and convenience. Repeatable accurate cuts are a slider's forte. A big slider can also be a great asset for sheet goods. Salesmen tend to sell what they have the most of or know best. I'd bet a Felder salesman would sell you a slider!" - Peter

"The method I use to make rip cuts uses the sliding table, not the rip fence. The wood to be ripped is clamped securely to the slider, making kickback impossible. I am also standing far to the side of the blade while pushing the sliding table with my hands far from the blade." - Robert

"I don't think there is a direct comparison from a cabinet saw to a true slider. Different work styles to do the same thing. I can tell you I have never heard or thought of any real downsides to a slider once past the price. A sliding shaper is the bomb." Joe

"I went from a Unisaw to a Laguna slider and the difference is amazing. There is a learning curve to using a slider, but the journey was worth it for me. There is no comparison to a shop-built crosscut sled for safety, repeatability, crosscut capacity and just plain coolness (is that a word?). There are not a lot of jigs on the market for sliders, but most wood butchers are a crafty lot, and can come up with some neat ones." - Mike W

"I have a large Technomax slider (in the MiniMax family) but have spent most of my life using cabinet or contractor saws. As has been said here, this really isn't a fair comparison. Like pro athletes, they are just playing a different game than the rest of us. Solid stock or sheet goods, the only downside is the initial expense. It was painful to pay for this machine, but it brings a smile to my face every time I use it. All that said, there is a learning curve. Unlike cabinet saws, there isn't a large universe (that I have found) of shop-made appliances that are detailed in your favorite magazines. Rarely will the latest tip directly translate to your situation, but the precision, safety and convenience more than makes up for it. - Tommy S.

Gluing Felt in Drawers from WoodCentral

This discussion started with a poster who wanted to put felt in the bottoms of drawers. While sprays are sometimes an option, he wanted other ideas. - Editor

"I need to glue felt in the bottoms of several drawers that have .020 thick sheet metal bottoms. I want to keep glue off the sides of the drawers. How would you do this?" - Virgil

One series of solutions dealt with posterboard – with or without the felt wrapped underneath. - Editor

"I've seen plans that call for using posterboard. Cut the board to size, glue on the felt and place it in the drawer. This has the advantage [that] you can replace the felt if ever the need arises." - Joe W.

"My wife, the quilter, has these suggestions. First suggestion: 1. Cut posterboard to the exact dimension of the drawer. 2. Cut the felt about 1/2" bigger than the posterboard. 3. Spray the posterboard and lay the felt on it so that there is approximately 1/4" of felt around the posterboard. 4. Let it dry. 5. Place the piece on a flat surface with the felt on the bottom. 6. With a rotary cutter, using the posterboard as a guide, cut the felt to the exact size of the posterboard. (Rotary cutters can be purchased at most sewing centers.) 7. She would not wrap the felt under the posterboard. Second suggestion: Use a non-slip rubber mat between the bottom of the drawer and the felt." - T Rex

"I made a bunch of boxes and wanted to line the bottoms with the velvet. I cut posterboard as others have suggested, but made it about 1/16" undersized. Cut the velvet about 2" oversized and glue it on with the board centered on it. Cut the corners off at about a 45 [degree angle] so that the cut runs right to the center of the board. The angle is not critical, because when you fold them under, they will match almost any way you cut them. Fold the flaps under and glue them. I think I used glue sticks to glue them on. Sticking the board to the cloth is not really critical. Just enough to hold the cloth still while you clip the corners and turn it under. " Barry

PSA-backed felt was another option suggested. - Editor

"I use PSA-backed felt. The paper backing is stiff enough that it makes it easy to lay out and cut whatever size I need. There is a bit of a learning curve. If you peel all the backing off, the felt shrinks up a bit, so I found the best way is to peel up one edge and cut about a 1/2" strip of the backing off. I can then lay the part with the backing on it into the drawer and get it positioned perfectly and press down on the part without the backing to secure it in position. I then lift up the loose part and peel the backing off, but before it all comes off I cut the backing to leave about a 1/2" strip so I can use that to apply a bit of tension while laying it down to keep it from shrinking. It sounds awkward and time-consuming but it takes more time to explain it than to do it." - Robin

Then there was a vote for a simple solution, and a testament to its longevity. - Editor

"When I was 22 years old, I built an 18-drawer machinist tool chest. I glued the felt in the drawers with just plain old Elmer's® white wood glue. I lined the bottoms and the sides of the drawers. The sides were done with four different pieces after I did the bottoms. Some of the drawers are only 3/4" deep. After 50 years, I'm still using the chest. None of the felt has ever come loose. The glue didn't soak through the felt as I expected. I bought the felt from a sewing materials store, the thick stuff. A little thicker than 1/16". I applied the glue to the wood and just layed the felt on the glue and smoothed it out until it was flat and even. Once I did that to a single piece, it stayed put and I could go to the next piece without waiting." - Marv